No really, here's what I have in my tool box: Hammer, straight and phillips head screw drivers in two or three sizes, tape measure, plyers, needle nose plyers, small rachet set, small "jeweler's" tool set and a variety of nails and screws. Coupled with my duct tape, there's nothing I can't do!!! LOL
Along with a hammer and nails you need patching plaster to repair the holes you made accidentally when you put the nail in the wrong spot. This occurs frequently when hanging pictures ... a common household chore.
Then, you must have a small amount of paint left over from when you painted the room where the nail was pounded in and then removed and plastered over. Use the paint to touch-up the plaster after it dries.
Buy a stud finder (no, one doesn't look in a singles bar for one of these). The stud finder will help you locate a wall building stud. These are less expensive in the long run than pounding nails every half-inch to find the stud.
Buy a pint of vodka to sip (over ice) after you've found the stud, pounded the nail in and discovered that it's 3 inches off from where you actually wanted it to be.
Call a professional decorator and carpenter, this time from the singles bar, and just relax! Owning a home is fun!
Another level should be two feet long with three bubbles that can be used to level and plumb (vertical) any object with one flat side. I used this size to level our stove. The more square and level a stove is, the better.
The refrigerator should also be checked, but this appliance should actually be slightly out of level. You want a refrigerator to tilt back toward the wall about 1/8 of a bubble. This will allow the door to swing closed and stay closed with a slight nudge. Don't exceed a backward lean of more than about 1/8 inch per foot though because the water in an icemaker will have thinner cubes in front and thicker cubes near the back.
A third level should be 4 feet long. It's great for laying out lines for hanging wallpaper. It will give you a vertical line even when your walls may not be perfectly vertical. Most homes do not have perfectly vertical walls or horizontal ceilings and floors. A good level will tell you which way and how much things are out of square or plumb.
Another item sandpaper. Get an open coat aluminum oxide in grades from 000 (very fine) to perhaps 100 grit (medium). An "open coat" simply means that it won't quickly gum up with what you are sanding. The very fine grade can be found on emery boards used to smooth fingernails. These emery boards are good for smoothing an occasional burr or sliver that develops in furniture or metal objects.
Any good upholsterer can pop 8 or 10 tacks in his/her mouth and, with caution and lip dexterity, turn a tack around so that the head of the tack is facing out. The magnetic end of the hammer is used to pick the tack from between pursed lips. Thus, the term "sterilized" to assure the upholsterer that it's ok to put the tack in one's mouth.
DO NOT TRY THIS, EVEN IN THE PRIVACY OF YOUR OWN HOME. Buy a power stapler.
"If women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy."
Oh fjohn, how I envy your talents as a wood carver. I would love to learn how. I really marvel at some of the older homes and how so much work and talent was involved on the inside and the outside. Everything now is so plain Jane in the newer homes... nothing as unique as they used to be.
I do a lot of crafts and I have always wanted to have a ban saw to cut out my own wooden pieces instread of having to buy them. I think Dremel came out with a new tool to cut wood that supposedly is very easy to use.
[ 04-11-2001: Message edited by: JoJo2 ]
Re: your comment about not knowing which end of the hammer to hit with is not as important to know as which end of a nail to hit. In a box of randomly selected nails, if the point of the nail is toward you, it is for the South side of your home; if the flat head of the nail is toward you, it is for the North side of your home.
JoJo: A band saw is good for some scroll work if the curve of the design you are cutting is not too severe. A band saw is ideal for free-hand work in thicker wood (over 1/2 inch).
A scroll saw is better for thin, flat woods and intricate patterns. However, the scroll saw is tedious when making lattice work or any non-continuous cut. For example, when making this smilie you have to drill a small pilot hole through the wood at the corner of one eye, then fit the saw blade through the hole and reattach it to the saw and then cut out the curved "closed eye." Then repeat the process for the other eye, and then the mouth.
You really have to love what you are doing, but using a scroll saw is "sit-down" work, something like using a sewing machine.
If it doesn't move and it should--Use WD-40!
Lirio, I haven't heard much about gaffer-tape or wire before. For some reason when I watch the credits for a movie I always check to see the name(s) of the Gaffer(s). Don't ask me why, because I have no clue. What is gaffer tape or wire like and what kind of things can you fix with them? I'm curious now.
Excellent motto shuttlebunny! You should make up some signs and start selling them.
You can rock a cradle, but you can't rock a casbah!