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Index: I : Indonesia

Special Sub-Topic: I've Been To Bali Too


We’re nearly there. Looking at the many island groups from my plane window seat inspires me to ask a very serious question. If you were shot from a cannon, you'd just about make Bali, if fired from which of these launch points?

    Java. Bali is part of the Indonesian Archipelago and is located only a hop skip and a jump off the eastern point of Java. (2kms)

Finally, we're here, but you could have told me how HOT this place is. We need to find somewhere to stay. I'm thinking a few days of R & R in the mountains. Where would you recommend?
    Ubud. Ubud is the cultural heartbeat of the Island. It is rich in music, art, drama and dance, arts and crafts. The surrounding hills have been carved into thousands of dark green rice terraces where you can still see farmers using bullock and hand plough. Legion, Nusa Dua and Kuta form a long tourist strip on the Southwest coast of the Island.

What's going on here? The concierge guy was called Wayan. Another chap called Wayan checked me in, and then ANOTHER Wayan, this time a girl, saw me to my room. Pinch me please. Why are so many Balinese called Wayan?
    Wayan is a Hindu caste name given to first born children on Bali. Within the Hindu religion different castes are used such as worker, priest, farmer, intellectual etc. The father determines caste. One of the more common castes uses the name Wayan for all their first-born children and Katak for their second. I forget the third, but for the fourth it goes back to Wayan.

This is paradise. Rice terraces, thatched roofs and baskets on heads. I sure know I'm in South East Asia, yet there's something with the design of some official buildings that looks foreign. Help me here, what is that influence?
    Dutch. Bali's documented history is long and fascinating and I urge you to research it at your leisure. The Dutch first arrived in Bali around 1560 (Dutch East Indies) but didn't see the commercial value of the little island for another 250 years, concentrating their efforts on the rice crops of Java. Bali fell as part of the Dutch colonial expansion and remained until the Japanese wanted Bali as a launch pad into Java during WWII. After the war, Balinese militants using captured Japanese weapons defeated the remaining Dutch. (see info Q10)

We've just completed the cultural tour and took in woodcarving, painting, silver smithing, the Barong dance and a Wayang Kulit (shadow play). I'm told the Balinese are so abundantly talented because Bali was a refuge for artists, entertainers, priests and intellects fleeing the mainland. What on earth were they running from?
    Islamic conversion. During the 16th century, Muslim missionaries bought their influence to Java. The royal and tribal leaders quickly adopted the practices of Islam for it's financial benefits and raised militants to ensure the rest of the populous also 'shared' Islamic vision. The result was the singers, the painters, the craftsmen, intellectuals and Hindu priests all fled east. Many ended up on Bali, thus giving it a rich abundance of cultural talent, whose influence would remain through the centuries.

Have you seen enough temples and craft? Great let's shop, destination Kuta! First we'll swap some money and become millionaires in which currency?
    Rupiah. Always a highlight of Bali is becoming a millionaire and living large. Well, one can dream right? One U.S. dollar will buy you around $8000 Rupiah, so it'll cost you about $125 for a million Rupiah. Of course the exchange rate will vary from day to day and you'll find the Balinese vendors will move the cost of goods accordingly.

I'm all bartered out and you're sick of lugging around your 'I've Been To Bali Too' t-shirts, fake Rolexes, and that life size wooden giraffe. We're in Jalan Raya, so lets grab a Bemo and go for a cruise. You look at me oddly. "What the.. is a Bemo?"
    Mini Bus. The famous 'Bemo Corner' in Kuta is not to be missed. Here you can hire a little blue bus called a Bemo, haggle over a fixed price with the driver and hightail it anywhere you want. It's sort of a bumpy taxi without a fare meter.

Back at the resort and sipping a cold Bintang at the pool bar, Wayan the waiter tells a story about the time an angry Gunung Agung killed 2000 Balinese and destroyed a thousand temples in 1963. I thought Gunung Agung was some lunatic Indonesian General but have since found out it was which of these natural phenomena?
    Volcano. Gunung Agung is the highest of six volcanoes on Bali. Through the years Gunung has woken up and caused havoc on the densely populated island. In 1963 it last erupted, displaced 100,000 Balinese and killed the islands crop leading to widespread starvation. Bali also lies on two tectonic plates. Earth tremors are not uncommon.

All week we've been trying to avoid stepping on these little baskets made from what looks like a banana leaf. They're everywhere, over the footpaths, in front of houses, shops, and on the street. They hold burning joss sticks and earthly items such as food. You tell me they are to keep evil spirits away. Should I believe you?
    N. The little baskets are daily 'offerings' to the Hindu gods. They may contain food, cigarettes or even money. The joss stick transmits the offering to the gods via the smoke, so once the stick has burnt out, the offering has been transmitted and the basket has no further spiritual value. You should therefore not feel bad if you stand on an extinguished one accidentally.

We've been tanned, massaged, manicured, pedicured and plaited. We've shopped, bopped, dropped and hopped all around this lush, spiritual little island. Time to catch the Wallaby home and get some real rest. "__________ Airport please driver."
    Ngurah Rai. Colonel Ngurah Rai (Bali's International Airport was named in honour of him) was the leader who led his army against the Dutch after WWII to throw off the last of the Dutch invaders. All his men were killed in a fight to the death during the Battle of Marga in Tabanan in central Bali, 1946.


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